Quick Reference — Starting Settings
Adjust from these starting values based on aurora brightness and your lens aperture.
Settings Explained
Full manual control required — auto exposure will fail in darkness.
Start at ISO 1600. Strong aurora: ISO 800. Faint aurora: ISO 3200. Higher ISO = more noise.
Use the widest aperture your lens allows. f/1.8 or f/2 lets in far more light than f/4.
For static aurora: 10–15 sec. For fast-moving aurora: 3–6 sec to avoid blur. Bright aurora = shorter.
Autofocus fails in darkness. Switch lens to MF and focus on a bright star or distant light. Use live view at max zoom to confirm.
Auto WB can shift colours between shots. Set manually to 3500K (cool/blue) or 4000K (neutral).
Always shoot RAW (not JPEG). RAW preserves full colour data for post-processing. JPEG is lossy and limits editing.
Turn off optical stabilisation when using a tripod — it can introduce micro-shake during long exposures.
Focusing in Complete Darkness
Getting sharp focus is the biggest challenge for aurora photography beginners. Autofocus is unreliable in darkness — it will hunt and miss. Use these techniques:
- Live view + manual zoom: Switch lens to MF. Enable live view on your camera, zoom in digitally to 10× on the brightest star you can find. Adjust focus ring until the star is a pinpoint, not a blob.
- Tape your focus: Once sharp, put a small strip of gaffer tape over the focus ring so it doesn't shift when you handle the lens in cold weather.
- Infinity mark: Most lenses have an ∞ mark — but the actual infinity focus is often slightly before it. The live-view method above is more reliable than the mark alone.
- Test shot: Take a 10-second test at ISO 3200 and zoom in 100% on playback to check sharpness before the aurora appears.
Photographing Aurora with a Smartphone
Night Mode
Use your phone's built-in Night Mode — it automatically takes longer exposures. On iPhone this is called "Night" in Camera; on Pixel it is "Night Sight".
Pro / Manual Mode
Many Android phones include a Pro mode. Set ISO to 1600–3200, shutter speed to 8–15 sec, and focus to manual infinity.
Tripod
A phone tripod is essential — you cannot handhold a 10-second exposure. Even resting the phone on a rock helps.
Avoid digital zoom
Digital zoom degrades quality significantly. Use wide angle instead.
RAW on iPhone
iOS 14+ supports ProRAW on Pro models via the camera settings. Enable it for maximum editing flexibility.
Photography FAQ
What is the "500 rule" for aurora photography?
To avoid star trails, divide 500 by your focal length in mm. E.g. 500 ÷ 24mm = 20 seconds maximum. With a crop-sensor camera divide by 300 instead. Aurora moves faster than stars so err on the shorter side (5–10 sec).
Should I use a remote shutter release?
Yes. Pressing the shutter button physically vibrates the camera. Use a remote release, the camera's 2-second self-timer, or a smartphone app remote to eliminate camera shake.
What lens is best for aurora?
A wide-angle lens (14mm–24mm) lets you capture a large section of sky. A fast maximum aperture (f/1.4–f/2.8) is more important than focal length. The most popular aurora lenses are the Rokinon/Samyang 14mm f/2.8 and the Sony 20mm f/1.8.
How do I avoid noise in aurora photos?
Shoot at the lowest ISO that gives a bright enough exposure. Shoot multiple frames and stack them in software (e.g. Starry Landscape Stacker or Lightroom) to reduce noise. Shoot in cold temperatures — sensors produce less heat noise in cold.
Can I photograph aurora with a phone?
Yes. Modern phones with Night Mode (iPhone 12+, Google Pixel 4+, Samsung Galaxy S21+) can capture aurora. Results are best with a tripod and strong aurora (KP 4+). A dedicated camera will always produce better results.